Pro Tips for El­e­vat­ed Ro­man Shades

This ar­ti­cle pro­vides a com­pre­hen­sive guide of tips and tricks for win­dow cov­er­ing pro­fes­sion­als to en­hance their Ro­man shade crafts­man­ship. It draws on the ex­per­tise shared in the pro­vid­ed YouTube videos and blog post.

Fab­ric Se­lec­tion and Prepa­ra­tion

  • Fab­ric Choice is Cru­cial: Opt for medi­um-weight, tight­ly wo­ven fab­rics that of­fer sta­bil­i­ty.
    • Avoid ex­ces­sive­ly soft, drapey, light­weight ma­te­ri­als as they lack the nec­es­sary struc­ture.
    • Steer clear of open-weave fab­rics, as they com­pro­mise pri­va­cy and re­veal shade mech­a­nisms.
    • Thick up­hol­stery fab­rics are also un­suit­able, as they cre­ate ex­ces­sive bulk when the shade is raised.
  • Lin­ing Con­sid­er­a­tions: Se­lect lin­ing ap­pro­pri­ate for the de­sired light con­trol and aes­thet­ic.
    • Ex­er­cise cau­tion with black­out lin­ing, as it can present chal­lenges spe­cif­ic to Ro­man shades.
  • Deep Hem for Longevi­ty: Ex­tend the bot­tom hem­line sig­nif­i­cant­ly be­low the first fold.
    • A deep hem (at least 2 inch­es vis­i­ble) pre­vents un­sight­ly fade lines caused by UV ex­po­sure on the folds.
    • The first ring should be po­si­tioned half the ring spac­ing dis­tance plus the de­sired vis­i­ble hem length from the shade’s bot­tom edge.
  • Gen­er­ous Back Hem: En­sure a sub­stan­tial hem (around 6 inch­es) is turned up on the back of the shade fab­ric.
    • This pro­vides am­ple ma­te­r­i­al to se­cure­ly at­tach the bot­tom row of rings, which bear the most stress.
  • Pre­cise Cen­ter­ing and Squar­ing: Metic­u­lous­ly find the fab­ric’s cen­ter and main­tain square­ness through­out the con­struc­tion process.
    • Fre­quent squar­ing with a ta­ble or work sur­face en­sures a pro­fes­sion­al, sym­met­ri­cal fin­ished prod­uct.
  • Crisp Press­ing: Thor­ough­ly press the fab­ric and lin­ing to main­tain sharp lines and ac­cu­rate mea­sure­ments, es­pe­cial­ly when work­ing with stripes or pat­terns.
    • Pre-press­ing the lin­ing be­fore at­tach­ing it to the face fab­ric helps pre­vent creas­es and en­sures ac­cu­rate chan­nel place­ment.

Ring Place­ment and Spac­ing

  • Pro­jec­tion Min­i­miza­tion: Keep the pro­jec­tion (dis­tance be­tween the wall and shade front) as small as pos­si­ble.
    • A close mount en­hances pri­va­cy, re­duces light leak­age, and min­i­mizes vis­i­bil­i­ty of mount­ing hard­ware.
    • Em­ploy a thin mount­ing board (e.g., 1x2) wrapped in co­or­di­nat­ing fab­ric for a dis­creet yet fin­ished look.
  • Pro­por­tion­al Ver­ti­cal Spac­ing: Ad­just the ver­ti­cal ring spac­ing to suit the win­dow length and de­sired fold depth.
    • Longer shades gen­er­al­ly ben­e­fit from greater spac­ing (up to 10–12 inch­es) to avoid ex­ces­sive fab­ric stack­ing at the top.
    • Short­er win­dows may re­quire clos­er spac­ing (5–6 inch­es) to main­tain a pleas­ing num­ber of vis­i­ble folds.
  • Hor­i­zon­tal Spac­ing for Sta­bil­i­ty: The hor­i­zon­tal ring spac­ing in­flu­ences the fab­ric’s sta­bil­i­ty be­tween the folds.
    • For light­weight or less sta­ble fab­rics, clos­er ring spac­ing pre­vents sag­ging or droop­ing.
    • Stronger, more sta­ble fab­rics al­low for greater hor­i­zon­tal spac­ing (up to 10 inch­es).

Lin­ing At­tach­ment and Chan­nel Cre­ation

  • Se­cure Lin­ing At­tach­ment: Em­ploy a com­bi­na­tion of bast­ing tech­niques to firm­ly at­tach the lin­ing to the face fab­ric.
    • Her­ring­bone stitch along the bot­tom edge an­chors the lin­ing and pre­vents a “dim­pling” ef­fect.
    • Run­ning stitch along the sides se­cures the lin­ing while re­main­ing in­vis­i­ble from the front.
    • Re­in­force stitch­ing at chan­nel lo­ca­tions to with­stand the stress of rais­ing and low­er­ing the shade.
  • Cus­tom Chan­nels for a Tai­lored Look: Avoid pre-bond­ed lin­ing or tape for chan­nels. In­stead, cre­ate cus­tom chan­nels by sewing them in.
    • This al­lows for pre­cise chan­nel place­ment and a high­er-qual­i­ty fin­ish.
    • Us­ing wood­en dow­el rods to form the chan­nels en­sures con­sis­tent width and a clean, pro­fes­sion­al ap­pear­ance.

Hard­ware and Fin­ish­ing Touch­es

  • All-White Hard­ware for a Clean Look: Use ex­clu­sive­ly white rings, cords, and oth­er hard­ware on the back of the shade for a co­he­sive ap­pear­ance from the ex­te­ri­or.
  • Stab Stitch­ing for Se­cure Hard­ware At­tach­ment: Use stab stitch­ing to dis­creet­ly at­tach rings and safe­ty clips, en­sur­ing they are hid­den from the front.
  • Break­away Clips for Safe­ty: In­cor­po­rate break­away clips on the first two rows of rings to meet child safe­ty stan­dards.
  • Blan­ket Stitch for Dura­bil­i­ty and Neat­ness: Use a blan­ket stitch to at­tach rings and break­away clips, pro­vid­ing a se­cure and aes­thet­i­cal­ly pleas­ing fin­ish.
  • In­vis­i­ble Vel­cro At­tach­ment: Con­ceal the Vel­cro used to at­tach the shade to the head­rail by fold­ing the ex­cess fab­ric over it.
  • Dow­el Rod Place­ment: When in­sert­ing dow­el rods into the chan­nels, en­sure the flat side faces up­wards for op­ti­mal sta­bil­i­ty.
  • Se­cur­ing the Bot­tom Bar: At­tach the bot­tom bar with­in the front fold of the shade hem to min­i­mize rolling.
  • Head­rail In­stal­la­tion: Care­ful­ly mea­sure and mark the place­ment of the head­rail cas­settes to align with the stitched rings.

Ad­di­tion­al Con­sid­er­a­tions:

  • Cord Type: While the source does­n’t spec­i­fy a par­tic­u­lar cord type, us­ing a high-qual­i­ty drap­ery cord en­sures smooth op­er­a­tion.
  • Wash­ing: Ro­man shades with dow­els typ­i­cal­ly re­quire dry clean­ing or care­ful spot clean­ing.

By im­ple­ment­ing these tech­niques, win­dow cov­er­ing pro­fes­sion­als can el­e­vate the qual­i­ty and aes­thet­ic ap­peal of their Ro­man shades, ex­ceed­ing client ex­pec­ta­tions and show­cas­ing their ex­per­tise.